Forum: HoseHeads Sprint Car General Forum (go)
Moderators: dirtonly  /  dmantx  /  hosehead

I am hoping to start running 305s at Knoxville next season. Have been running micros for 15 years. Have the micro for sale.

My question is, what can you legally do to the engine? I know about everything people are supposedly doing that is illegal, but what legally can be done? I see Ostrich has a kit for around 6k that gets everything but the block, electronics and injection. Will I compete with this? I don't know what people are getting for their 18 - 20 k they say they are spending. Let me know your thoughts.

The best thing you can do to be competitive is change your name to McCarl, Ball, or Phillips. Then it won't matter what you do to your 305 engine.

But seriously...

Just have a reputable engine builder do it to the Knoxville rules.

Are you really suggesting cheating by those three. I know their motors hit, but call me crazy, your not going to find much more experience in their teams than any other 305 team at Knoxville. And for a "beginner" class at the big half mile I think that has a lot to do with it.

My suggestion to you would be to call John McCoy at the number listed on Knoxville's website, or go to the track on Saturday afternoon and sit down and talk to him. Asking a question like this on a public forum is not a good way to start. most of the detailed info on the forum is not acurate information, you can figure out why that is. Example, on a recent post about 305 motors at Knoxville, a poster was complaining that Knoxville allows all this high dollar stuff and had roller cams included in the statement. Not true, and if it is I'm pissed because i have a different set of rules then. Take the ramblings on the forum as a grain of salt and go right to the proper source for the acurate info.

Good Luck to you in 2012

Q11, we think the 305 class is a great class for people like yourself to get into sprint car racing. Carson McCarl's car is 2001 Eagle Chassis with a 5 year old Vortex wing that was sitting behind our shop. We built his car according to Midwest 305 specs which means it has no Titaneum and no dry sump on the engine. His engine was built by Automotive Machine- Manny Rockhold from Pekin, IL. if you have any questions. Carson had very little micro experience and had only raced a sprint car twice before this season. We really like the 305 class for people just starting out and for people that just want to race a sprnt car and have fun. We hope Knoxville keeps the rules tight and doesn't let the cost get out of hand as this is a great class and has been putting on great races for the fans. Sprint cars, especially in this area, need more feeder classes like Micros and 305 sprints. Carson's motor will be for sale at the end of the season if anyone is interested.

15 t0 20 thousand for, a 305 is crazy. They pay $350.00 to $500.00 to win. The 305 is a good class and they have become very fast compared to 5 years ago. You can buy a machined block from speedway> this block is ready except you must notch top of each bore so valves do not hit.. You can buy good used injectors and pump and magneto..You should use a forged crank, forged pistonand rods that will take 600 hp. DO NOT BUY QLD DIRTY PARTS, iF PAST OWNER DID>NT TAKE GOOD CARE OF THEM YOU WILL HAVE TROUBLE tALK TO SOME FRONT RUNNERS AND ASK THEM ON CAMSHAFTS, IF THEY ARE NOT A DORK THEY WILL TELL YOUtry huggins and comp cams. Kustom sprint cars phone 515-864-6551 has used F in j.,pumps and alot more, Take your time and buy good parts. You have wet and dry sump to decide on. Dry sump may cost you up to $2,ooo . Wet sump is alot less and with wet sump you have to use windage trays to get oil back into pan

Check out JR motorsports in Iowa,they sell shortblocks or complete engines pretty reasonable.Make sure you get file fit rings ,you need to keep all the methanol you can out of your oil.

Get a good engine to start with. I've known Lee Nelson of Ostrich for more than twenty years and he's built and rebuilt my engines since he was at Haps and then Midwest Motorsports. He's always taken good care of me. Having a pro build and dyno it gives you baseline settings for the fuel system, very important. Learn how the fuel system works, get an ADR gauge of some sort and a good magnifier to read the plugs and have your engine builder show you how to read them. Another reason to have someone close by do your building. Buy better engine parts than you can afford and if a dry sump is legal, spend the extra money for it. Get the stainless oil lines at least, don't try to scrimp by using the blue hose. Any straight chassis will work fine. Get good, reasonably new wheels from someone who takes care of their stuff and rotates it frequently - if you can't afford new ones - check frequently for cracks in the centers. Learn how to maintenance the car and be religious and picky about it. I'm sure you're tight on money, who isn't, but keep rotating things like radius rods, heim ends and spindles. Bob Thompson and the guys at Jockos know a lot and can help you with parts questions. Start with a simple, basic setup from the chassis builder and then, as Bob Trostle told me, "Drive the shit out of it!"