Forum: HoseHeads Sprint Car General Forum (go)
Moderators: dirtonly  /  dmantx  /  hosehead

LF: 2 inch block RF: 1.25 inch block

LR: 2.25 inch block RR: 3 inch block

Can you have the tallest blocks on opposite sides of the car?? I was thinking you should have your tallest and shorest blocks on one side of the car....

Is there an advantage to running something like this??

Let me know what you think

wow this will be intersting!!!!!!!!!

wow, i guess you dont like your driver to much!

Where did you get this set-up?? You leave a lot in the open here. To make things easy for you, The Maxim website has a great tech support page. Take a look and see if this helps.

Good luck!!

Ken Netsch

throw that chassis away

Should work out great if you are going clockwise!

Rome wasn't built in a day......but they sure didn't
waste any time burning it down!

I've seen crazier set ups for short dry slick tracks that have worked. Appears that they are trying to make the car react to a reverse stagger type set up.

you can try your idea, but the best way i have found to block a sprint car is to put something big in front of it.........

to indy and beyond!!

This seems like a strange way of saying a car blocked at 2 inches in the front and three in the rear with cross weight on the LR.

Usually cars are blocked with the same height blocks on each side of each individual axle (example 2.5 on both sides in the front 3.5 both sides in the rear) unless it is a raised rail car, then there is an inch difference to account for the raised rail. Then any weight jacked into it is expressed in turns of the torsion stop adjustment bolt.

I know guys that setup with cross weight in the LR for very slick tracks where the best opportunity to pass is getting off the corners. I don't do it but I don't think they are wrong for it.

don't know much, but i think would want a bottle of seagrams 7 and then a beer and a couple shots of jose just sit in the seat, if that was mounted in the right direction.and if that was cocoked a bit i better have a couple jag bombs for good measure. the every thing would be straight to the world. o by the way none of those need be in any order just bring them on

If you would like to use thes blocks do it this way and you will handle fine.

You will have to run 1000 or smaller bars.

LF: 1.25 inch block RF: 2 inch block

LR: 3 inch block RR: 2.25 inch block

All of the above blocks Seam alittle to short. I would ad 1/2 to3/4 to the both the front blocks and 1 inch to both of the back blocks. And you will be on the money.

It would depend on the bars used and what kind of preload you were running and track conditons and about a hundred other variables LOL

There are some odd setups that work very well that aren't considered conventional but as I said they can work very well.

You can use 2" blocks on both sides of the front then set the car down and back the stop off on the RF and end up with the same setup. Blocking with different size blocks on one side of the car might get them closer to their true setup without having to add or remove turns to get the correct ride height.

On my Micro Sprints we would preload the LR and take turns out of the RF...put it on the scales and the cross weights were dead on.

I think this guy should prob stick with 3"s in the front and 4"s in the rear..KISS

Call the guy who built the chassis. If you don't want to follow his recommendations, why follow ours? I have a ton of radical setups, but if I want to test them, I'll put them on the car, not ask a bunch of hosers for advice

Thanks guys!

Hey just curious as to why you say to use the softer bars with this set up??

Thank you!!!