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Forum: Racing From The Past (go)
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Topic: Removing large bolt from taper axle... Email this topic to a friend | Subscribe to this TopicReport this Topic to Moderator
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RRC
October 27, 2010 at 04:40:55 PM
Joined: 02/14/2005
Posts: 254
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I have an old taper rear that has been together for some time.I am trying to break loose the large bolt in the center of the axle that holds on the carriers. I have used rust penatrator, heat and my biggest breaker bar and these suckers won't break loose. Anyone ever encounter this and have any ideas? thanks, rc




welder
October 27, 2010 at 08:27:10 PM
Joined: 11/29/2006
Posts: 595
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Reply to:
Posted By: RRC on October 27 2010 at 04:40:55 PM

I have an old taper rear that has been together for some time.I am trying to break loose the large bolt in the center of the axle that holds on the carriers. I have used rust penatrator, heat and my biggest breaker bar and these suckers won't break loose. Anyone ever encounter this and have any ideas? thanks, rc



Maybe they are LH threads?????



RRC
October 27, 2010 at 10:10:32 PM
Joined: 02/14/2005
Posts: 254
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Did they make left hand threads for those axle bolts? I never encounted that before...




brian26
October 28, 2010 at 12:01:07 AM
Joined: 12/03/2006
Posts: 7918
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Reply to:
Posted By: RRC on October 27 2010 at 10:10:32 PM

Did they make left hand threads for those axle bolts? I never encounted that before...



If they didn't they should have. We had an old 2" that kept coming loose on the left side I think( been 24 years ago, not sure which side.)

We used loctite and a cheater to put ours back on, and when I brought the old car back out, I placed the 2" aside and got a rearend with a splined steel axle. There was no way in perdition would I ever come out good on getting that sucker off after 24 years! Eternal wall art now, since I can't sell it.




roostasix
October 28, 2010 at 02:16:48 PM
Joined: 03/29/2007
Posts: 85
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We use this penetrant called AeroKroil... the stuff is amazing. It's about $10 for a can, but worth it. The only places you can find it around here are the industrial/hydraulic type stores. It's in an orange can.

We have a 3" tapered rear in our car, and both sides are RH thread.

Kyle



RRC
October 28, 2010 at 06:07:46 PM
Joined: 02/14/2005
Posts: 254
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Reply to:
Posted By: roostasix on October 28 2010 at 02:16:48 PM

We use this penetrant called AeroKroil... the stuff is amazing. It's about $10 for a can, but worth it. The only places you can find it around here are the industrial/hydraulic type stores. It's in an orange can.

We have a 3" tapered rear in our car, and both sides are RH thread.

Kyle



Thanks Kyle,after 15 minutes with an impact gun, I finally got the things to break loose. Never expected they would be so hard to remove! Even though I have a hub puller,I'm expecting the same tussel removing the carriers from the axle.Any tips out there?




DGM 7620
October 28, 2010 at 08:45:57 PM
Joined: 07/18/2007
Posts: 377
Reply
Reply to:
Posted By: roostasix on October 28 2010 at 02:16:48 PM

We use this penetrant called AeroKroil... the stuff is amazing. It's about $10 for a can, but worth it. The only places you can find it around here are the industrial/hydraulic type stores. It's in an orange can.

We have a 3" tapered rear in our car, and both sides are RH thread.

Kyle



Kyle,

A while back when you guys were restoring your car, Kim Parson emailed me some pics of your car, I believe they were in your dad's shop as a couple of the pic had Randy in the back ground, I also think in one of those pic was the top off of the manifold that came off of the #94 that Lyndon bought off Shot Hampton that Perry Tripp is restoring. Any way could you email me those pics, I would much appreciate it!!!!

David Grace

 

RRC,

Years ago at the Old Mans shop we drilled into the center of the bolt with a 5/8 bit almost all the way through then heated it HOT then welded a piece of bar stock with Low/ High into the hole and then the bolt just zipped out no problem. I have seen more then once those square keys strip out on those tapered axles and we would just take a big wood handle screw driver (Proto, Bonney or Snap-on) what ever we had and cut the blade off and drive it up in the slot, retighten the bolt and maybe run the rest of the year. I've seen Walker's cut another key slot in the axle and hub if it was wollowed out and that seemed to work good also, in those days stuff was built 10 fold tougher then it is now.





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